Tucked away in the most northerly reaches of the Kruger National Park, close to the mighty Limpopo River and the border with Zimbabwe is a truly hidden gem.

This area of Kruger is known as the Makuleke concession & was actually returned to the ownership of the Makuleke people although under the provision it would be operated in accordance with and remain part of the Kruger National Park.

Sandwiched between the Limpopo River to the North and the Luvuvhu River to the South it is a truly magical, vast & relatively untouched wilderness.

The options for staying this far north are very restricted – the most northern of Kruger’s own restcamps – Punda Maria is some 76 Kms south from Pafuri Gate, (although in late 2016 the Pafuri Border Camp operated by Sanparks was opened). Regular visitors to this area are also restricted to a very limited road network, providing a single route through to Pafuri Gate and a route out along the Luvuvhu river to Crooks corner.

So for those looking to explore the area more extensively you need to look to one of the 2 private concession lodges that offer accommodation in this most northerly sector – Wilderness Safaris operate Pafuri Lodge just on the border of the concession on the banks of the Luvuvhu and also offer walking trails from a mobile camp. The Outpost, where we are staying is situated in the opposite North Western corner of the concession in close proximity to Pafuri Gate.

We had chosen to self-drive to the lodge, although it is possible to fly into the Pafuri airstrip & be transferred to the lodge from here, and had enjoyed a wonderful array of wildlife as we drove up through the Kruger. The final approach to the Lodge gives little away of what to actually expect, after leaving the main tar road, you meander along a rocky stretch of road which eventually rises sharply up the side of a small koppie & with little warning you find you have arrived facing the unassuming if slightly blocky facade of the lodge.

Something we quickly discovered was that the lodge had been designed with a sense of drama & a play on the great reveal. What at first glance from the outside may seem plain & unassuming, will only reveal its magical secrets to those fortunate enough to enter. On entering prepare to be dazzled and a little overwhelmed by the incredible setting, and the  clever modern-minimalist design that provides the perfect foil to the unbelievable beauty of the location of this lodge.

The main lodge is everything that you would expect of a high-end safari establishment. Furniture and decoration is elegant & sophisticated whilst retaining a neutral palette. Although predominately open plan, clever “spaces” have been created; comfortable spots for relaxing & reading, areas to sit, chat & socialise, a dining area where you are served lunch and breakfast & of course an inviting bar at which to enjoy a drink. At one end the space flows seamlessly through to an open air pool and terrace enjoying shade from some trees that the structure has incorporated.

Having taken in the main Lodge area the next delight awaiting us & once again the master  of illusion was our own room. Leaving the pool area via a raised deck walk-way that coiled along the edge of the cliff, we passed a few rooms – unassuming rectangular shaped concrete structures that revealed nothing to the passing observer. Arriving at our room – Number 11 (the lodge has a total of 12 individual suites), walking through the door you are immediately transported, the entire front of the room has been left open, the view is out of this world, and the suites have been cleverly designed to ensure it is all about the views. Having said that, absolutely nothing about the room leaves you lacking, from the huge freestanding bath, the most incredibly comfortable bed to ensure a good nights sleep, to the addition of not 1 but 2 day beds, from which to enjoy the view, your every need has been catered for. There is a duality to the room, created by the exceptional vision of the architect, who has at once allowed you to feel not only completely immersed in nature and the incredible scene in front of you but at the same time utterly pampered with luxury, a difficult balance to strike but one which has been miraculously achieved.

Being fully inclusive as one would expect the care you receive from the staff is faultless and there is absolutely no chance that you might go hungry, as delicious food appears with surprising frequency multiple times a day.

Apart from the Outpost’s own beautiful setting one of the main reasons to opt to stay in this lodge in this area is to have the opportunity to experience some of the remotest parts of Kruger, and for this you wouldn’t be disappointed. 

Our first game drive, did not disappoint, wonderful game sightings including a rare rhino and some elusive birds, our drive also included the customary sundowners stop but this one really was the highlight of a visit to this area – having stopped the vehicle we got out and followed our guide along a short trail that passed through some trees and then snaked up a small koppie, prepare to once more be blown away – Lanner Gorge is one of those exceptional places that is just known by anyone who has been to this area, a strikingly beautiful gorge carved into the landscape at some points it is 150m deep, what makes it especially unusual is its only accessible to those staying in one of the lodges in the concession or on a walking trail in the area, so it is a secret of the Kruger reserved for the few. 

The following day we enjoyed a pride of lions on a kill and the beauty of the fever tree forests as we made our way out to Crooks Corner – as we sat by what remains of the old trading post, a trio of bull elephants wound their way towards us, a stark reminder of the history of the spot and its association to the big game hunters of begone eras.

The Northern Section of the Park is like a right of passage or the secret handshake to a secret society, you suddenly become a member of a very elite club that has experienced the true magic of Kruger. Away from the crowds and the rush to see the big 5, you can experience the vastness of this ancient landscape and feel humbled in its presence. There’s a quiet reverence in this land that has to be experienced to be understood. Dwarfed by the huge beauty of nature in all her glory – from the incredible Lanner Gorge, to the expansive fever tree forests and the mighty Limpopo river, you find yourself at the crossroads to three countries – South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, it is a place where history seems less distant and modern civilization seems unimportant, it is a place where you can enjoy the silence of the wilderness and within this silence truly hear the whispering of nature and mother earth.

To find out more or to book your stay visit Rare Earth Retreats here.

The Breakdown